today, — standard session $10 instead of $20. 00:00:00 Take it
$10
The wines

Fourteen wines.
None posted.

Seven regions, one for each stop on the tour. You will taste four of them at the bench — the four that grew nearest the room you are standing in. There is no cart on this website and there is not going to be one.

Hunter Valley

NSW · 2 wines
Hunter Valley · NSW  |  Dry white · Unoaked

Skin & Bone

Rutherford & Dray · Semillon · 2024 · 11.0%

The Hunter's own trick: picked early, no oak, eleven per cent, and it tastes like nothing much for five years before it turns into toast and lime and one of the great white wines of the country.

Made
Whole-bunch pressed, cool-fermented in stainless, bottled in the autumn.
Eat with
Oysters, or anything that arrived cold and raw.
Window
Drink now or in 2034. Avoid the years in between.
Hunter Valley · NSW  |  Dry white · Barrel

The Long Paddock

Rutherford & Dray · Chardonnay · 2023 · 12.8%

Wild-fermented in one-third new French oak and left on lees until it stopped arguing. White peach and curd lemon with a chalk line running underneath.

Made
Barrel-fermented, eleven months on lees, no malolactic.
Eat with
Roast chicken with the skin left on.
Window
Drinking now, holds to 2030.

Yarra Valley

VIC · 2 wines
Yarra Valley · VIC  |  Light red · Whole bunch

Nightjar

Kellerman Wines · Pinot Noir · 2023 · 13.2%

Thirty per cent whole bunch, foot-trodden, and pressed before anyone was quite ready. Red cherry, wet stem, and a savoury edge that makes the second glass better than the first.

Made
Open fermenters, basket press, ten months in seasoned oak.
Eat with
Duck, mushrooms, or a long Sunday.
Window
2026 to 2032.
Yarra Valley · VIC  |  Dry white · Cool climate

Cold Frame

Kellerman Wines · Chardonnay · 2024 · 12.5%

From the highest, coldest block on the property. Picked nine days before anything else and kept in old oak so it stays taut — green apple, white flowers, a saline finish.

Made
Seasoned oak only, eight months, no stirring.
Eat with
Scallops. Anything with butter and acid in the same pan.
Window
Now to 2029.

Granite Belt

QLD · 2 wines
Granite Belt · QLD  |  Medium red · Granite

Stone Country

Halverson Estate · Shiraz · 2022 · 13.8%

Nine hundred metres up on decomposed granite, which is not where anyone expects Queensland wine to come from. Medium weight, dark plum, a line of pepper straight through the middle.

Made
Fourteen months in old French oak, no fining.
Eat with
Lamb shoulder, slowly.
Window
Now to 2033.
Granite Belt · QLD  |  Dry white · Aromatic

Fireweed

Halverson Estate · Verdelho · 2025 · 12.0%

The variety Queensland actually does well and almost nobody talks about. Nashi pear and lime leaf, bone dry, and cold enough to be dangerous on a hot afternoon.

Made
Stainless, cultured yeast, bottled within four months.
Eat with
Anything off a barbecue with chilli in it.
Window
Drink it this year.

McLaren Vale

SA · 1 wines
McLaren Vale · SA  |  Light red · Old vine

The Quarry

Oberon Vineyards · Grenache · 2023 · 14.0%

Bush vines planted in 1948 on sand over limestone. Red berry, dried herb, almost no tannin to speak of, and served slightly cool it is one of the easiest bottles in the country to finish.

Made
Concrete egg, eight months, whole berries.
Eat with
Charcuterie, or nothing at all.
Window
Now to 2030.

Adelaide Hills

SA · 1 wines
Adelaide Hills · SA  |  Dry white · Ageworthy

Slate Ridge

Oberon Vineyards · Riesling · 2025 · 11.5%

Off the top of the Hills where the frost still catches people out. Lime pith, green apple, wet slate, and acid that arrives about two seconds after you think it is finished.

Made
Free-run juice only, cool ferment, no oak.
Eat with
Vietnamese anything.
Window
Now to 2037.

Margaret River

WA · 2 wines
Margaret River · WA  |  Full red · Structured

Cape Mentelle Road

Barrowman & Co · Cabernet Sauvignon · 2021 · 13.9%

The reason Margaret River exists. Cassis, bay leaf, fine chalky tannin, and a structure that will still be standing when everyone who made it has retired.

Made
Eighteen months, forty per cent new French oak.
Eat with
Rib eye. Do not overthink it.
Window
2027 to 2041.
Margaret River · WA  |  Dry white · Textural

Ninety Mile

Barrowman & Co · Chenin Blanc · 2024 · 12.2%

Old chenin off vines nobody bothered to pull out in the eighties, which turns out to have been the right decision. Quince, beeswax, and a long dry finish.

Made
A third in old barrels, the rest in tank, six months.
Eat with
Pork belly, or a very good cheddar.
Window
Now to 2031.

Tamar Valley

TAS · 2 wines
Tamar Valley · TAS  |  Sparkling · Traditional

Wharf Light

Tindale · Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot · NV · 12.0%

Made the slow way and disgorged by hand. Pale copper, strawberry skin, bone dry, and the bubble is fine enough that people ask what it is every single time.

Made
Traditional method, thirty months on lees.
Eat with
Fried food. It is the correct answer.
Window
Now.
Tamar Valley · TAS  |  Light red · Cool climate

Black Sugarloaf

Tindale · Pinot Noir · 2023 · 13.0%

Tasmania does this better than anywhere else in the country and the rest of Australia is still catching up. Dark cherry, forest floor, and tannin like fine sand.

Made
Twenty per cent whole bunch, twelve months in French oak.
Eat with
Salmon, cooked rare, with something bitter beside it.
Window
Now to 2034.

Canberra District

ACT · 2 wines
Canberra District · ACT  |  Medium red · Co-ferment

Limestone Flat

Gundagai Road · Shiraz Viognier · 2022 · 13.5%

Co-fermented the old northern Rhône way, which lifts the whole thing and makes it smell like violets and white pepper before you have even tasted it.

Made
Five per cent viognier in the ferment, fourteen months old oak.
Eat with
Anything with black pepper on it already.
Window
Now to 2032.
Canberra District · ACT  |  Dry white · Ageworthy

Frost Hollow

Gundagai Road · Riesling · 2025 · 11.8%

Six hundred metres up, where the growing season is short and the nights are cold enough to hold everything in place. Lemon blossom, lime, and a finish that goes on longer than it has any right to.

Made
Stainless, wild ferment, five months on light lees.
Eat with
Salt and pepper squid.
Window
Now to 2036.
Why nothing ships

The flight is
the whole point

Every one of these is made in small enough volume that a national mail order would empty the cellar by March. More usefully: each wine was chosen to sit beside a particular work, in a particular room, poured by somebody who can tell you why.

Take two bottles home from the bench and the session fee comes off. That is the only transaction on offer, and it happens in person.

14Wines across the tour
7Regions, one per city
4In the standard flight
0Bottles posted anywhere